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posted by Klip7 at
7:44 PM
Thursday, April 15, 2010
Wednesday, January 27, 2010
Discipline in General
Discipline in General
The first and most important thing to remember is that she's a cat, not a very short, 4-legged person. It also helps to realize that she will likely think of you as a very large cat, admittedly with some peculiar non-cat foibles (such as an appalling lack of talent at mice-catching). Try to look at things from her viewpoint--she really does have a reason for what she's doing.
Second, never, ever hit your cat. I have found that an attempt to be reasonable, as odd as that may sound, works best. (Example: Stanley was in the habit of taking other cat's tidbits out from under their nose; he'd been doing it for years. As I was sitting on the kitchen floor one day, giving out handouts, I observed him doing this - I pushed my hand up into his face, pushing him back slightly, and said, "Stanley, we DON'T steal from each other." He hasn't done it since; in fact, he looks up at me to ask permission to eat another cat's leftovers when they walk away.)
Using the same reprimand word works best - though I tend to talk in full sentences to my cats (they are, after all, much more intelligent than anybody else's cats), most people find that simply saying "NO!" in a firm, no-nonsense voice for all infractions works well. If he won't listen, keep a squirt bottle of plain water handy (be sure to keep the bottle away from your children, so they don't use it as a toy against your cat). Or toss your keys toward him - not at him - so the noise will startle him. At least one of my cats can't tell where a whistle comes from, and she looks over her shoulder somewhat nervously when she hears one - so if she's being "bad," I whistle and she almost always stops what she is doing.
The first and most important thing to remember is that she's a cat, not a very short, 4-legged person. It also helps to realize that she will likely think of you as a very large cat, admittedly with some peculiar non-cat foibles (such as an appalling lack of talent at mice-catching). Try to look at things from her viewpoint--she really does have a reason for what she's doing.
Second, never, ever hit your cat. I have found that an attempt to be reasonable, as odd as that may sound, works best. (Example: Stanley was in the habit of taking other cat's tidbits out from under their nose; he'd been doing it for years. As I was sitting on the kitchen floor one day, giving out handouts, I observed him doing this - I pushed my hand up into his face, pushing him back slightly, and said, "Stanley, we DON'T steal from each other." He hasn't done it since; in fact, he looks up at me to ask permission to eat another cat's leftovers when they walk away.)
Using the same reprimand word works best - though I tend to talk in full sentences to my cats (they are, after all, much more intelligent than anybody else's cats), most people find that simply saying "NO!" in a firm, no-nonsense voice for all infractions works well. If he won't listen, keep a squirt bottle of plain water handy (be sure to keep the bottle away from your children, so they don't use it as a toy against your cat). Or toss your keys toward him - not at him - so the noise will startle him. At least one of my cats can't tell where a whistle comes from, and she looks over her shoulder somewhat nervously when she hears one - so if she's being "bad," I whistle and she almost always stops what she is doing.
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posted by Klip7 at
2:03 AM
Thursday, January 7, 2010
Steps to introduce your new kitten to an older pet
Here are a few steps you can follow to introduce your new kitten to an older pet.
- Make introductions slowly and confine your new kitten to its own room for a couple weeks
- Begin introducing your kitten by first open the door to her room a crack and letting the other cats know she is there and vice versa
- After a couple days put your new kitten in her carrier and let the other pets in the house in the room. Except some hissing at first but don't be discouraged.
- You can also rub a blanket or toy against your new kitten and give it to the other cats so they can get used to her scent. Also do the same to the older cats and give the item to the kitten.
- With in a week or two everyone should be getting along just remember to be patient
- Most dogs and cats also get along, but this may take a little longer. There may be scuffles, hissing and barking, but there is every chance that before long they will be playing together. Again, it's smart not to leave them together unattended until you see the situation clearly.
- But whether your other pet is a dog or a cat, remember to show him extra love and affection so that he won't be jealous of the newcomer. And don't force your older animal to accept your cat immediately. Let him do it at his own pace.
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posted by Klip7 at
11:00 AM
Wednesday, December 23, 2009
Scratching Furniture/Declawing
Scratching Furniture/Declawing
First, please note that declawing your cat so he won't scratch your furniture is cruel and inhumane. It is the equivalent of cutting off your finger up to the first knuckle. There can be serious physical and psychological effects.
Instead, you should train your cat to use a scratching post. Other alternatives include a quick, painless trimming of his claws (which you can do at home using special clippers) or covering the claws with soft sheaths (which you can purchase relatively inexpensively).
Scratching is one of your cat's most ingrained instincts. Keep a scratching post near where the cat usually sleeps or, if he has already picked out a corner of your sofa, keep it next to that chosen spot. You may need to train your cat to use his scratching post. Do not pick him up and put his paws on the scratching post (that will only make him want to avoid it). Make the scratching post appealing to him: rub catnip on it or mist it with catnip spray; drape a heavy string (a long leather shoelace works great) over it and wiggle it to catch his interest; put treats on the very top.
Important: Invest in a scratching post that is 24" or 30" tall, with a sturdy base - your cat may be using the arm of the sofa because he can stretch higher than his scratching post will allow. Most of the ones you will find at the store are only 18" high so you may need to visit a pet supply store.
I recently found THE best scratching post for our cats! It's made out of rough sisal (NOT the rope, a weave!). It's tall (29 inches), doesn't fall over, doesn't wobble, and doesn't slide across the floor. And, of course, the best part: all the cats love it. It's called the TopCat Sisal Scratching Post.
A few cats don't like scratching on a vertical post, but will scratch willingly on a flat scratching pad. If your cat prefers a flat surface, you can either buy one of the cardboard scratching boxes (typically available from mail order or pet stores), or buy a scrap of plywood and a carpet remnant, large enough to fold around onto the back of the plywood. Cut the corners on an angle, fold the carpet remnant over the wood, and tack the carpet on using carpet tacks or heavy-duty staples.
Sometimes changing to a scratching post that is covered with sisal rope or a different texture will kindle his interest in the post, as well.
An additional idea, one that worked well when there were more vacant rooms in the house, is to follow the instructions above for a flat-surface scratching pad, then mount it on the wall at a convenient height for the cat, in a hallway or in the laundry room.
Other solutions: If he's scratching wood furniture, rub strong-smelling furniture polish into it. For sofa and chair sides, cover the edges of the sofa with heavy plastic (available at your local fabric store - typically used to cover footstools or protect tablecloths - you can buy twist-pins while you're there to hold the place neatly in place) or aluminum foil for a retro, funky look (use velcro or double-stick tape to hold in place). Or spray a cloth thoroughly with one of the sprays formulated for keeping a cat off the furniture, and pin it to the sofa, chair, or your speakers (don't spray directly onto the furniture). Or, put strips of self-adhesive velcro (loop side out) on the favored scratching spots. If all else fails, everytime you see him actively clawing the furniture, spray him lightly from a bottle of water (do this only when he is actually scratching, not when he is approaching or leaving the furniture).
First, please note that declawing your cat so he won't scratch your furniture is cruel and inhumane. It is the equivalent of cutting off your finger up to the first knuckle. There can be serious physical and psychological effects.
Instead, you should train your cat to use a scratching post. Other alternatives include a quick, painless trimming of his claws (which you can do at home using special clippers) or covering the claws with soft sheaths (which you can purchase relatively inexpensively).
Scratching is one of your cat's most ingrained instincts. Keep a scratching post near where the cat usually sleeps or, if he has already picked out a corner of your sofa, keep it next to that chosen spot. You may need to train your cat to use his scratching post. Do not pick him up and put his paws on the scratching post (that will only make him want to avoid it). Make the scratching post appealing to him: rub catnip on it or mist it with catnip spray; drape a heavy string (a long leather shoelace works great) over it and wiggle it to catch his interest; put treats on the very top.
Important: Invest in a scratching post that is 24" or 30" tall, with a sturdy base - your cat may be using the arm of the sofa because he can stretch higher than his scratching post will allow. Most of the ones you will find at the store are only 18" high so you may need to visit a pet supply store.
I recently found THE best scratching post for our cats! It's made out of rough sisal (NOT the rope, a weave!). It's tall (29 inches), doesn't fall over, doesn't wobble, and doesn't slide across the floor. And, of course, the best part: all the cats love it. It's called the TopCat Sisal Scratching Post.
A few cats don't like scratching on a vertical post, but will scratch willingly on a flat scratching pad. If your cat prefers a flat surface, you can either buy one of the cardboard scratching boxes (typically available from mail order or pet stores), or buy a scrap of plywood and a carpet remnant, large enough to fold around onto the back of the plywood. Cut the corners on an angle, fold the carpet remnant over the wood, and tack the carpet on using carpet tacks or heavy-duty staples.
Sometimes changing to a scratching post that is covered with sisal rope or a different texture will kindle his interest in the post, as well.
An additional idea, one that worked well when there were more vacant rooms in the house, is to follow the instructions above for a flat-surface scratching pad, then mount it on the wall at a convenient height for the cat, in a hallway or in the laundry room.
Other solutions: If he's scratching wood furniture, rub strong-smelling furniture polish into it. For sofa and chair sides, cover the edges of the sofa with heavy plastic (available at your local fabric store - typically used to cover footstools or protect tablecloths - you can buy twist-pins while you're there to hold the place neatly in place) or aluminum foil for a retro, funky look (use velcro or double-stick tape to hold in place). Or spray a cloth thoroughly with one of the sprays formulated for keeping a cat off the furniture, and pin it to the sofa, chair, or your speakers (don't spray directly onto the furniture). Or, put strips of self-adhesive velcro (loop side out) on the favored scratching spots. If all else fails, everytime you see him actively clawing the furniture, spray him lightly from a bottle of water (do this only when he is actually scratching, not when he is approaching or leaving the furniture).
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posted by Klip7 at
5:43 AM
Thursday, November 26, 2009
Cat-Proof Your Home
Cat-Proof Your Home
Kittens and cats are lively and curious, which can lead them into serious trouble unless you take preventative measure. Also remember that your cat has a lower vantage point than your own, like a baby who has begun to crawl, and may be attracted to things you do not see when you are standing.
It's practically impossible to absolutely cat-proof your home against accidents, but for your cat's health and safety, here are some suggestions:
* Securely screen all windows to help prevent falls. Keep your cat off balconies, upper porches and high decks. * Securely store poisonous materials. Keep these in tightly closed areas where your cat cannot get access. Remember, cats are handy little creatures and have been known to open cabinets and doors.
* Remove poisonous houseplants or place them in hanging baskets completely our of your cat's reach. Ask your veterinarian or for a complete list of dangerous plants. Some indoor and outdoor plants which are poisonous to cats include:
Poisonous Plants
Amaryllis
Ivy (most types)
Azalea
Lilies (all types)
Buckeye
Mistletoe
Castor Bean
Morning Glory
Clematis
Narcissus
Corn Plant
Oleander
Cyclamen
Philodendron (all types)
Daffodil
Poinsettia
Daphne
Precatory Bean
Dumb Cane (all types)
Rhododendron
Foxglove
Rubber Plant
Holly
Weeping Fig
Iris
Yews
* * Store plastic bags where your cat can't get inside them and suffocate or chew or tear them and swallow bits of plastic. * Cut plastic six-pack beverage holders apart to prevent your cat from getting tangled in them. This will also protect wildlife that may accidentally encounter them. * Keep exposed electrical cords as short as possible, or tack them against a baseboard so that your cat can't play with or chew them. * Store sewing supplies out of your cat's reach. Buttons, needles, pins, and thread can hurt his mouth or internal organs if swallowed. The same goes for nails, screws and other small pieces of hardware. * Never use electric blankets to line your cat's bed. He could be electrocuted if he chews the wire.
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posted by Klip7 at
3:29 PM
Saturday, October 17, 2009
The Household Omnivore
The Household Omnivore
We all know that cats are efficient hunters. They're carnivores. They eat meat. So why do they stalk our houseplants? There are two possible reasons why cats crave greenery. One is that they eat grass and other plants as a dietary supplement. The other theory is that the roughage helps clean out their system, and aids in expelling hairballs.
Either way, their habit of nibbling on houseplants can be destructive to your decor (and dangerous if the plant is poisonous). Many cat owners grow small containers of grass, sprouted birdseed, or even catnip for their cats to munch on.
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posted by Klip7 at
12:29 PM
Tuesday, September 29, 2009
Keep toilet lids down.
Keep toilet lids down.
Cats may play in the water and the lid could close and trap them. Also residual toilet bowl cleanser left in the bowl is harmful if swallowed.
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posted by Klip7 at
1:26 PM
Sunday, September 20, 2009
Vaccine Sarcoma
Low Fat Recipes Vaccine Sarcoma
Regular vaccinations for your cat are important to his health, but in rare cases they can be a problem. Veterinarians across the U.S. are seeing a slight increase in the number of cancerous tumors, called sarcomas, in places where cats recently had vaccinations. Sarcomas are uncommon-four or fewer per 10,000 vaccinations-but serious and very difficult to manage successfully. To reduce your cat's risk of developing a sarcoma, talk to your veterinarian about ways to lessen the number of shots your cat requires. Carefully examine the cat's environment, including his potential exposure to infectious agents. If there's little risk, certain vaccinations may not be necessary. For more information, consult your veterinarian.
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posted by Klip7 at
4:31 PM
